Srisailam

Overview

Srisailam is a temple town in Nandyal district, Andhra Pradesh, set among the Nallamala hills where the Krishna river has been dammed. A Srisailam tour suits pilgrims, and it also appeals to anyone curious about a shrine reached by a road through forest. October to February is the easier stretch for the journey, since the plains around Kurnool can pass 43 C in May.

The Mallikarjuna temple is why most people come. It counts among the twelve Jyotirlingas of Shiva and, through the goddess Bhramaramba, among the Shakti Pithas. The walled compound covers about two hectares, with four gateway towers and outer walls measuring roughly 183 m by 152 m. Satavahana-period inscriptions of the 2nd century point to its antiquity, and the Vijayanagara ruler Harihara I later made major additions. A long flight of steps, 852 in one count, leads from the compound down to the river, known locally as Patala Ganga.

Beyond the main shrine the sights are modest and close together: Sakshi Ganapati, the Akka Mahadevi Caves, Shikareshwara and the Siddi Ramappa Kolanu waterfalls. The dam across the Krishna is counted among the larger dams of South India. The land around it falls inside the Nagarjunsagar-Srisailam Tiger Reserve, set up in 1983 and spread across more than 3,500 sq km of Andhra Pradesh and Telangana, where the Krishna has carved a gorge close to 200 m deep. Tigers, leopards, sloth bears, dholes and sambar are among its mammals.

The route in is part of the experience, and part of the planning. Hyderabad is about 231 km away by road, Vijayawada about 264 km and Kurnool about 180 km. State buses run from Markapur and Atmakur, and Markapur Road, around 83 km off, is the nearest railway station with a distance on record. Cross the forest stretch in daylight and confirm the current rule on night travel with the forest department before setting out.

Darshan, seva and room bookings are handled by the Srisaila Devasthanam, so look at its own pages before fixing a date. Maha Shivaratri is the main festival here. A night in town leaves time for the river steps, the caves and the dam without hurrying, and a second day suits those who want the reserve as well.

Known for

One of the twelve Jyotirlingas, in a walled compound of about two hectares