Araku Valley

Overview

Araku rewards people who take the slow way up. The most memorable approach is by rail from Visakhapatnam, along a line that was laid in the mid-1960s with iron-ore freight in mind and now threads the Eastern Ghats through 58 tunnels and 84 bridges. A daily express to Kirandul carries panoramic Vistadome coaches as far as Araku, so you can watch the forest close in. Drivers cover about 114 km from the coastal city, though other published figures run a little higher or lower.

The valley sits at roughly 900 metres, so mornings are cooler than on the coast. Most of its 1,700 mm of yearly rain falls between June and October, which leaves the hills green when the weather clears.

Coffee is the local story. Arabica is grown by tribal farmers beneath jackfruit, mango, banana and silver oak shade, and the state's Girijan Cooperative Corporation has been tied to the crop's promotion among them since 1956. Dropping into the Coffee Museum in town makes a tidy introduction before you head out to the plantations. A good Araku coffee plantation tour also leaves time to talk with growers about harvest and shade.

The valley is home to more than 17 tribal communities. In town, the Tribal Museum uses life-sized dioramas to show tools, jewellery and instruments, and the Dhimsa dance, performed in circling chains of women in bright saris, is the cultural expression most people associate with the area. Treat these as living communities rather than a show, and ask before taking photographs of people.

Outings fill a second day easily. Madagada viewpoint is known for its cloud-level views at dawn, Chaparai has a waterfall, and the Araku Pinery covers about 27 acres of tall trees. Many visitors add the limestone Borra Caves on the way up or down. Late January and early February bring the winter festival, when the town fills with folk performances, so book early if you plan to come then.

Known for

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